{"id":16302,"date":"2016-12-26T00:00:00","date_gmt":"2016-12-25T23:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.bodegasmontecillo.com\/novedades\/the-history-of-wines-from-rioja-part-i\/"},"modified":"2024-04-25T22:54:16","modified_gmt":"2024-04-25T20:54:16","slug":"the-history-of-wines-from-rioja-part-i","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.bodegasmontecillo.com\/en\/news\/the-history-of-wines-from-rioja-part-i\/","title":{"rendered":"The history of wines from Rioja Part I"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">In previous publications we have talked about <a href=\"\/novedades\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">the grapes from the Rioja D.O.Ca<\/a>, of their ageing, and corresponding categories, as well as <a href=\"\/novedades\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">the best option<\/a>, always a priori, for each social occasion. <\/span><br \/>\n<img decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" class=\"alignnone size-large\" src=\"\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/12\/tumblr_inline_oisj2zexS41re2n5l_1280-1.jpg\" alt=\"La Rioja\" width=\"880\" height=\"440\" \/><br \/>\n<span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">We haven&#8217;t missed a trick!<\/span><br \/>\n<span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Having said that, we have still not explained <strong>how it all began<\/strong>.<\/span><br \/>\n<span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">As the <strong>D.O.Ca Rioja is considered to be one of the most sought-after and prestigious wine regions on the planet<\/strong>, we are going to comment on the origin of the liquid legend that is Rioja wine. <\/span><br \/>\n<span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">The history of Riojan wines covers the long and varied tradition of <\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/es.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Vinificaci%C3%B3n\"><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">winemaking <\/span><\/a><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u00a0in the <\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/es.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Espa%C3%B1a\"><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Spanish region <\/span><\/a><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">of the <\/span><a href=\"http:\/\/ebro\"><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u00a0Ebro Valley, <\/span><\/a><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u00a0covering the area between the <\/span><a href=\"http:\/\/obarenes\"><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Obarenes Mountains,<\/span><\/a><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> the <\/span><a href=\"http:\/\/cantabria\"><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Sierra de Cantabria<\/span><\/a><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> to the north and the <\/span><a href=\"http:\/\/demanda\"><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u00a0Sierra de la Demanda <\/span><\/a><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u00a0to the south. <\/span><br \/>\n<span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"><strong>During the Middle Ages the growing of vines was very much linked to the Church and Monasteries<\/strong>, as occurred in many other European viticultural areas, without doubt due to the significance of wine in the Christian religion.<\/span><br \/>\n<img decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" class=\"alignnone\" title=\"Map of La Rioja\" src=\"\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/12\/tumblr_inline_oisjb2o8zO1re2n5l_1280-1.jpg\" alt=\"Map of La Rioja\" width=\"900\" height=\"594\" \/><br \/>\n<span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"><strong>Until the 15th Century the wine produced by Riojan vinegrowers was mainly for private consumption<\/strong>, as the majority came from tithes to churches and monasteries, as well as the their abundant vineyards. <\/span><br \/>\n<span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Trade grew considerably, as Rioja increased its production way beyond the needs of self-sufficiency.<\/span><br \/>\n<span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"><strong>The commerce in Riojan wines was limited by land transport<\/strong>, although there was proof of the sale of wine in Italy, France and Flanders via the Port at Bilbao, the export of wine was far exceeded by the trade in Riojan wool and did not reach the levels seen in other areas such as Port and Bordeaux that were advantaged by maritime and river transport. \u00a0\u00a0Rioja would have to wait until the arrival of the railway in the 19th Century. <\/span><br \/>\n<span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">But, really, <strong>Rioja did not surface until the <\/strong><\/span><strong><a href=\"https:\/\/es.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Filoxera\">phylloxera<\/a><\/strong><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"><strong> epidemic<\/strong> (an insect that attacks vine roots), which affected French vineyards at the end of the <\/span><a href=\"http:\/\/xix\"><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">19th century, <\/span><\/a><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">as it would take several more decades for Spanish region to be infested.<\/span><br \/>\n<span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">And this was the turning point that marked a drive forward in terms of the <strong>expansion and modernisation of the wine industry<\/strong>, both through being open to the French market, as well as due to the popularisation of new winemaking techniques, some of which arrived with French winemakers who were looking for new lands that were unaffected by the epidemic. <\/span><br \/>\n<span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"><strong>This continued until 1925, a year in which the region was recognised as a Designation of Origin, the first to be constituted in Spain. <\/strong><\/span><br \/>\n<img decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" class=\"alignnone\" src=\"\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/12\/tumblr_inline_oisj8sP19g1re2n5l_1280-1.jpg\" alt=\"Denominaci\u00f3n de Origen Calificada\" width=\"615\" height=\"200\" \/><br \/>\n<span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Having said this we are going to stop to go back over a few key moments.<\/span><br \/>\n<span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">For example, the oldest remaining document that refers to <strong>the existence of vines in Rioja dates back to <\/strong><\/span><strong><a href=\"https:\/\/es.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/873\">873<\/a><\/strong><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">. It comes from the <\/span><a href=\"http:\/\/cogolla\"><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">San Mill\u00e1n<\/span><\/a><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> Cartulary and refers to a donation that was made by the San Andr\u00e9s de Trepeana Monastery where there were some vines. <\/span><br \/>\n<span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Viticulture was not referred to again for another two centuries, when we find the \u00ab<\/span><a href=\"about:blank\"><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Longares population charter<\/span><\/a><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">,\u00bb granted by Don G\u00f3mez, Bishop of N\u00e1jera, in July <\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/es.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/1063\"><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">1063<\/span><\/a><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">. This levied a serfdom on the locals in favour of the <\/span><a href=\"http:\/\/albelda\"><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">San Mart\u00edn de Albelda Monastery<\/span><\/a><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">, of \u00abtwo days of ploughing, two days of digging, two days of planting, two days of cutting and one of harvesting.\u00bb<\/span><br \/>\n<span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">But aside from these anecdotes you have to travel forward to the 18th Century, when <\/span><strong><a href=\"http:\/\/quintano\">Manuel Quintano<\/a><\/strong><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">, canon of <\/span><a href=\"http:\/\/burgos\"><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Burgos Cathedral,<\/span><\/a><strong> learnt the winemaking techniques used in the <a href=\"https:\/\/es.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/1787\">M\u00e9doc<\/a><\/strong><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"><strong> region in France<\/strong>, during a trip there in\u00a0<\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/es.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/M%C3%A9doc\"><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">1787<\/span><\/a><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">. <\/span><br \/>\n<img decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" class=\"alignnone\" src=\"\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/12\/tumblr_inline_oisjnbKvZf1re2n5l_1280-1.png\" alt=\"Manuel Quintano\" width=\"868\" height=\"558\" \/><br \/>\n<span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Take note, we are talking of a time when Bordeaux was just about to achieve worldwide fame thanks to Thomas Jefferson who was US ambassador in France and was responsible for the bottling of the mythical sweet white wine, Ch\u00e2teau d\u00b4Yquem.<\/span><br \/>\n<span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">In fact, the Thomas Jefferson 1787 collection was one of the highest priced wine collections in history, with bottles at more than 200,000 euros. <\/span><br \/>\n<span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Returning to Don Manuel, once in Spain <strong>he put the new techniques<\/strong> described in his \u00abMethod for making wine in Bordeaux\u00bb &#8211; what he had learnt in that city &#8211;<strong> into practice in his viticultural operation in Labastida<\/strong>. It was a complicated year due to high rainfall during the vegetative period. But he cleaned the grapes before pressing, controlled the fermentation temperature, carried out rackings and clarified the wine with egg white. Crushing the bunches, he removed the stalks to give longer-lasting wines (wines with higher total acidity and lower pH than if whole bunches were barrelled.) Racking removed the dregs that gave wines a coarse character and the use of barrels to store and transport wine avoided the unpleasant flavour of wineskins. Recommendations were also included on growing vines, <strong>the need to use the most select grapes in the production and the formula for sugar enrichment<\/strong>, by adding a part of previously boiled must to the fermenting grapes.<\/span><\/p>\n<div class=\"video-container\"><iframe loading=\"lazy\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/7zHujgE2D8k?rel=0\" width=\"700\" height=\"394\" frameborder=\"0\" allowfullscreen=\"allowfullscreen\"><\/iframe><\/div>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">This was pure R&amp;D. <\/span><br \/>\n<span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"><strong>The results were very well received and the king granted him authorisation to export wines to America<\/strong>, with the privilege of being considered wines from Castille, in order to avoid certain taxes and commercial hurdles. 1863 marked a great change in the structure of ownership in Rioja, as the small vine grower was key to sustaining the wine sector until investment from private enterprises came in. Successive disentailments of large properties belonging to the clergy transferred rural ownership to the rising middle classes and to many medium-sized vine owners who were responsible for the <strong>spectacular growth of Rioja\u2019s vineyard area in the last third of the 19th Century. <\/strong><\/span><br \/>\n<span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">This, in the understanding of the Riojan winery owners, was against their interests, as the majority could not adapt these techniques to suit their wineries. Initiatives to improve the grapes with the objective of favouring business arose. In 1862, the provincial council of Alava contracted <strong>Jean Pineau<\/strong>, famed oenologist from Bordeaux, to <strong>instruct winemakers in the production and ageing of wines.<\/strong><\/span><br \/>\n<span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">So, that was the situation until the arrival of the middle of the <\/span><a href=\"http:\/\/xix\"><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">19th Century<\/span><\/a><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">, when\u00a0<\/span><a href=\"http:\/\/murrieta\"><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Luciano Murrieta<\/span><\/a><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> put the knowledge he had acquired &#8211; once again in <\/span><a href=\"http:\/\/espartero\"><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Bordeaux <\/span><\/a><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u00a0&#8211; into practice into the Duque de la Victoria winery in Logro\u00f1o, owned by his friend and business partner, <\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/es.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Burdeos\"><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Baldomero Espartero<\/span><\/a><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">, who was in exile in London.<\/span><br \/>\n<span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">These wines were the first in Rioja to be produced fully with Bordelaise techniques and they were known as fine wines. \u00a0He had great success and in 1852 created the Marqu\u00e9s de Murrieta\u00a0winery in the Ygay estate that he would acquire in 1877. 1852 is the first vintage to be produced by LM and was exported to Mexico and Cuba from Rioja.<\/span><br \/>\n<span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> I&#8217;m sure you recognise the name. <\/span><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>In previous publications we have talked about the grapes from the Rioja D.O.Ca, of their ageing, and corresponding categories, as well as the best option, always a priori, for each social occasion. We haven&#8217;t missed a trick! Having said that, we have still not explained how it all began. As the D.O.Ca Rioja is considered [&#8230;]<\/p>\n<p><a class=\"btn btn-secondary understrap-read-more-link\" href=\"https:\/\/www.bodegasmontecillo.com\/en\/news\/the-history-of-wines-from-rioja-part-i\/\">Read More&#8230;<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":16299,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"inline_featured_image":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-16302","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-non-category"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v28.3 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>The history of wines from Rioja Part I<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"The D.O.Ca. Rioja is one of the most prestigious regions of the planet. 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